Cata de vinos fortificados y de postre
Montes Late Harvest 2003 Montes Wines Curicó – Chile (Gewürztraminer 50% y Riesling 50%, 13%, 100 gr/lt, 70% de Botrytis). Sorprendió la relativa timidez aromática inicial, sin embargo después desplegó olores sutiles. En boca delicado, equilibrado y con buen punto de acidez. No está hecho para sorprender sino para cautivar. Acompañó deliciosamente al Fourme D’Ambert, un estupendo queso azul francés.
Nederburg
Noble One 2003 Nederburg Wines Western Cape (Sudáfrica). Dulce botrytisado. Chenin blanc 90% , Riesling 10%. Una nariz en la que destacaba esa sensación musqué que da la botrytis. Tal vez con un dulzor que no está respaldado por otros elementos que le confieran complejidad pero por S/. 35 (US$ 12) la botella de 375ml, resulta una estupenda compra.
Erbaluce di Calusso Passito DOC 1999 Coperativa Erabluce di Calusso Passito (Piemonte). Dulce de Uvas Pasificadas. Era el vino más antiguo de la cata y nos mostró a todos su noble evolución. Pasó más de cuatro años en barricas después de haber sido vinificado con uvas pasificadas. Además tenía el valor de lo exótico y escaso.
Domaine de la Rectorie Cuvée Parcé Frères 2003 AOC Banyuls (Francia) Garnacha. VDN Vin Doux Naturel .
Este vino fue el único pie forzado. En una tienda limeña descansaba esta botellita a la que le tenía echado el ojo. Un estimulante artículo de Juan Capel me acercó más a esta zona y pensé que no podíamos dejar de pasar esta oportunidad. Pertenece al estilo más joven de la bodega pero a todos nos encantó su finura, su dulzor no evidente y con una virtud que busco más que la concentración en un vino: la profundidad, que en realidad es una sensación que mezcla el placer físico con algo intelectual que hace que sientas que la materia es la justa y que la sabiduría no es siempre científica. Las galletas de chocolote incrustadas con fruta confitada fueron un complemento a la altura del vino.
Hardy’s Port Tall Ships Riverland (Australia) Shiraz, Moscato, Garnacha 17.5% Generoso. Un oportoide sencillo, sin pretensión pero bien elaborado que quedó muy bien con el queso azul.
Partida Especial 2001 de Chandon Mendoza (Malbec y Tempranillo). Generoso con tres años en barricas y seis en botella). Europa tiene la tradición pero nunca es tarde para crear una propia. Este mini tawny mostró una rica fruta en nariz y cierta complejidad en la boca.
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