Menú Primavera 2012: Astrid & Gastón
La Naturaleza
Recibimos un nido en la mesa y la escena es sobrecogedora. Recuerda lo perfecto y lo precario de una nueva vida. Y a través de esta sensación plástica nos acercamos a los primeros bocados que deparaban sorpresas.
-Achira Hierbas y ajo
-Kiwicha y algas
-Marañón acidulado
-Begonia manzana
-Los presuntos huevos eran unos Maracuyá-granadilla sours semisólidos.
El Hombre
Fue un comienzo brillante lleno de juegos de texturas con equilibrio y nitidez en los mensajes
Tomate silvestre, verdolaga, agua de tomate
Papa Huamantanga, rocoto y hongos de pinos “Porcón”
Pallar: virutas de calamar y castañas, oxalis rojo, caldo concentrado (bolas blancas): fue uno de los bocados más sorprendentes.
Choclo concha de bahúa, aceite de coral, culantro
Ganan por KO en el primer round con cuatro platos novedosos e intensos. Las pequeñas porciones pasaban vertiginosamente y cuando se busca una pausa la curiosidad pide saber cuál es el siguiente plato. El placer de lo efímero y de la incertidumbre bajo control.
Esta sección de platos fue complementada con éxito por el finísimo Champagne Rosé de Ruinart.
Cuando el último bocado nos hacía pensar que iríamos hacia platos calientes, el menú, como una montaña rusa, nos llevó a otro terreno.
El Encuentro
Cebiche de Carretilla: pejerrey, almeja, caracol de mar, erizo, cancha serrana triturada: lo hubiéramos preferido más puro. La textura de la canchita picada le restó frescura y contundencia.
El Tiradito nos sorprende con lo helado de la leche de tigre nitrogenada. Es un guiño a las técnicas actuales pero que no es usada solo como un fuego artificial, sino que le sube el volumen a una sensación lúdica y placentera.
En el Chupe predomina el carácter de la leche, en un tono dulzón y en el langostino no encontramos la profundidad de sabor que tiene el camarón y su coral. El plato nos gustaría más si no se llamara chupe porque sentimos que no evoca su esencia.
Sudado choros, chauchilla, lechuga de mar: cerrando este póker de clásicos.
«El Encuentro» fue tal vez fue el más desigual de los movimientos de esta sinfonía pero de todos modos se mostró en buen nivel.
La presencia sin pudor de las cervezas es muy atinada. La Sierra Andina Huaracina Pale Ale, se funde miméticamente con el cebiche y el tiradito. La cerveza Barbarian Chaski Porter estaba muy buena, pero se podría haber reservado para platos de mayor contundencia o con carácter ahumado.
El Refugio
Dashi: pulpo tostado, sésamo negro, nabo japonés, palta, shiso rojo. Un ritual japonés evidencia el amplio registro con el que trabaja la cocina peruana encontrando familiaridad en diversas culturas, acogiéndolas y adaptándolas con naturalidad
Cuy Pekín: maíz morado, salsa agridulce, encurtidos. Una de las grandes sensaciones de la noche. Ponen al cuy en un punto alto y protagónico. Un juego de texturas y sabores magnífico.
Un fresco albariño, el Lagar de Cervera 2011, D.O. Rias Baixas, muestra suficiente personalidad para realzar estos dos exóticos platos.
Carbonara: arracacha, yema de corral, guanciale, pimienta negra. Otra vez un juego exitoso en el que de acuerdo a la tradición usan guanciale pero sorprenden con un giro que lo da el uso de la interesante arracacha a modo de spaghetti.
Carapulcra: plato complejo, lleno de sabores: papas nativas, maní, cerdo, chocolate. Los chefs lo reescriben con inteligencia en un tono intenso y balanceado.
El Sideral 2006 de la bodega chilena Altaïr es sabroso, con muy buena materia y acompaña bien los platos aunque tal vez una mejor elección pudiera haber tenido a un vino algo menos potente.
Hoy
El final es otro de los grandes momentos del menú con una apuesta que apela a la memoria con evocaciones a la dulce infancia
Manjar de Chirimoya: bizcocho crocante, naranja
Paleta de Lúcuma: chocolate 60% cacao nativo, cereales andinos
Beso de Moza: camu camu, caramelo, merengue
El Alcyone, el licor de Tannat de Viñedo de los Vientos, es bastante dulce con sensaciones tostadas y de fruta sobremadura que permite enfrentar los postres más retadores.
Se cierra con unos estupendos petit fours: teja de lúcuma, bizcocho de calabaza, goma de mango–albahaca y camu camu, bombón de algarrobina y bombón de pisco. Este pudo ser el momento para que brillara el pisco por si mismo también, presentado puro en una copa.
Hay atrevimiento y ambición, usando como modelo formal los menús degustación europeos de hoy, pero con un carácter profundamente peruano que retumba permanentemente. La gran experiencia gastronómica del 2012.
¿Hacía dónde va Astrid & Gastón? ¿A tener dos restaurantes en uno: el primero con la oferta convencional y el otro con menú degustación?. No debe quedar esto en una muestra de virtuosismo y despliegue sino transformarse en la locomotora que lo lleve a crecer de manera integral.
Astrid & Gastón Lima Cantuarias 175 , Miraflores
Precio: S/.335 (solo comida) y S/.520 (con vinos y cerveza elegidas especialmente)
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