La Cucharita – Tapas Bar
Recién inaugurado, todavía no tiene la concurrencia que se merece, por lo menos el día que fuimos. Este tipo de local no está hecho sólo para almorzar o cenar, sino para calmar el hambre en cualquier momento del día, relajarse un momento, toar una copa o conversar con un amigo frente a la barra comiendo unas tapas o pinchos.
Los pinchos y tapas son conceptos muy similares. El «pintxo» es típico del país vasco y viene tradicionalemente con un palito que permite armar la porción y llevarla a la boca. La tapa nace como un complemento del vino o la cerveza.
Para empezar y acompañar pedimos un jerez fino de Barbadillo. Lo encontramos un poco oxidado y fue cambiado por otro, de una nueva botella. El jerez fino es delicado y es muy importante tener botellas que no superen uno o dos años desde que salieron al mercado. Cosa que no es fácil porque no siempre las botellas indican fechas de referencia.
La cocina de Nazario Cano combina virtuosismo con un gran cuidado por la materia prima. Experimenta pero sin perder la raíz del plato y su origen.
Pinchos Fríos
– Pisto de pollo de corral: el pisto es el equivalente español de la ratatouille. Esta versión incluye tiernos pedazos de pollo. Equilibrado y sabroso.
– Centolla a la vizcaína: pulpa de centolla sobre tostada. Correcto.
– Tortilla española: de excelente factura y presentada en forma original: cuatro dados en un plato largo. Fresca y jugosa.
– Tartare: un plato que recién incorporan a la oferta. La carne cruda picada sobre una tostada de baguette complementada por una salsa con sabor profundo a base de mostaza, pimienta, miel de chancaca y , sin pretender engendrar una fusión, la peruanísima algarrobina. Nuestra anfitriona Fanny Conroy, la tercera socia de este emprendimiento, nos propone acompañarlo con el Mosto Verde de quebranta de Santiago Quierolo. Un gran acierto.
Ensalada
– Ensalada de mezcla de arúgula con salmón ahumado, queso parmesano y mostaza dulce. Perfecta para hacer un alto y refrescar.
Tapas
– Mojama de atún: la mojama original es carne de pescado seca al aire. Nazario nos explica que su idea es presentarla con un guiño oriental sin tanto secado. Servida con rebanadas de pan con tomate al estilo catalán. Buena.
– Carilleras guisadas de ternera con cabello de ángel. El cuchillo es innecesario para cortar esta carne tierna que acompaña con zanahoria finamente ralladas (de allí lo de cabello de ángel) y un suave puré de camote. Muy rico.
– Pulpo a la parrilla al carbón con cebollas glaseadas y arúgula: hay muchos pulpos a la parrilla y por momentos pienso que demasiados. Cada restaurante tiene uno. Éste es original, con cierta rusticidad.
Otro de los últimos experimentos de la casa Papas bravas al carbón, que presentan en un ahumado natural, una ollita que el comensal se encarga de descubrir. Se acompañan con una salsa de tomate, piquillo y aceite de oliva ahumado.
Cerramos con una muy pertinente mousse de chocolate, con verdadera consistencia de mousse, acompañada de fresas y pimienta.
Lo mejor: propuesta innovadora, cosmopolita y cocina de calidad.
Por mejorar: hay buenas opciones de vinos, a las que le deberían añadir otras referencias españolas. La barra debería presentar algunas tapas y pinchos listos para darle el toque informal que requiere un local de este tipo.
Comentario: las porciones son perfectas para compartir entre dos personas. Los precios van desde S/. 5 hasta S/. 20
Descorche:
Dirección: Jr. La Mar 1200, Miraflores
Teléfono: 717-8868
Horario de atención: Lunes-Sábado de 10am-4pm y de 7:30pm- 2am Domingos de 11am a 5pm. Lunes cerrado.
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