Balance de Premium Tasting Lima 2023
(por Carlos de Piérola)
Premium Tasting nació hace 14 años en Mendoza de la mano de Nicolás Alemán (y el sommelier Rodrigo Kohn) y se expandió después a Buenos Aires, Santiago y Lima. En cada ciudad organizan una gran cata anual con la participación de muchos enólogos, una buena convocatoria de profesionales y también de aficionados entusiastas. La organización y el servicio requieren de una gran precisión para atender a por lo menos 250 bebedores/comensales. Pero la estrella de la noche siempre es el vino que se realza con un ambiente lúdico, de espectáculo compartido y complicidad muy especial.
La primera edición en Lima fue en 2017 y la 2023 es el reestreno después de la interrupción por la pandemia. Nicolás Alemán es el presentador y quien mueve los hilos de este evento. Los moderadores fueron la experimentada sommelière argentina Marina Beltrame (que ya había estado en otras ediciones) y el sommelier Diego Vásquez Luque (por primera vez un peruano) director de bebidas del grupo de restaurantes de encabezados por Central. Ellos lograron marcar el ritmo y promover la intriga y exploración en la cata a ciegas.
La inclusión de 18 pequeños platos que acompañaron (de 3 en 3) las seis primeras rondas fue un reto que asumieron el chef Danny Rojas y su equipo y que superaron con éxito tanto en la calidad de la comida y selección de platos como en el servicio. Pero en una mesa con 6 vinos y 3 platos y con un ritmo vertiginoso (que se fue acelerando hacia el final) no tenía mucho sentido hacer un ejercicio minucioso de maridaje sino más bien disfrutar en forma libre de la gastronomía ofrecida por el hotel complementando a los vinos.
Participaron 39 bodegas de 5 países sudamericanos:
Argentina: Alma Mater, Bodegas Bianchi, Cadus Wines, Catena Zapata, Cavas de Weinert, Doña Paula, El Relator, Enemigo Wines, Escorihuela Gascón, Pulenta Estate, Riccitelli Wines, Mil Suelos, Norton, Pascual Toso, Piatelli Vineyards, Puerta del Abra, Siesta en el Tahuan, Susana Balbo Wines, Zorzal Wines, Zuccardi Valle de Uco. (21 bodegas)
Chile: Calcu, Casas de Bucalemu, Maquis, Montes Wines, Pérez Cruz, Polkura, Valdivieso, Ventisquero, Viña Leyda. (9)
Perú: Bodega Murga, Finca Rotondo, Intipalka, Tacama. (4 bodegas)
Brasil: EBV Urban Winery, Familia Geisse, Sacramentos Vinifer (3 bodegas)
Uruguay: Bouza, Cerro Chapeu. (2 bodegas)
En las siguientes líneas hacemos un recorrido por los vinos catados:
Ronda 1: dedicada a blancos, un rosado y un espumoso.
Salinas Sauvignon Blanc 2021 – Casas de Bucalemu Rocas de Santo Domingo, Valle de Leyda (Chile) Cristóbal «Toti» Undurraga presentó a esta bodega de llegada reciente al mercado peruano. Sin dudarlo era un sauvignon. En este caso frutal, salino y largo en boca. ¡Buen incio!
Pan de Azúcar Riesling 2020 – Bouza Viñedo Pan de Azúcar, Maldonado (Uruguay) Ya no es solo tannat. Uruguay está haciendo albariños de calidad, algunas variedades del suroeste de Francia de estilo clásico y con este riesling floral y recuerdos minerales demuestran que hay una rica veta por explorar en blancos.
Lote Blanco 2022 – Norton San Pablo, Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, (Argentina) David Bonomi es uno de los genios de la enología argentina. Hace unos años me habló de su proyecto con la cepa grüner veltliner, típica de Austria. No tuve ninguna pista porque su expresión fue algo tímida al principio aunque después se fue abriendo en la copa.
Fósil Chardonnay 2022 – Zuccardi Valle de Uco San Pablo, Tunuyán, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina). Los vinos de Sebastián Zuccardi siempre toman riesgos. No son evidentes. Para él siempre menos es más. Busca austeridad, sobriedad, trasparencia y profundidad. Uno lo empieza a descubrir en la nariz y lo termina de enntender en la boca donde es intenso pero afilado como si le hubieran quitado cualquier signo superfluo con un cincel.
Patrimonial Quebranta 2023 – Intipalka Valle de Ica, (Perú). Luis Gómez es el artífice de una paulatina metamorfosis en Intipalka. Ha ido ordenando y redefiniendo los distintos vinos, entendiendo las variedades, los suelos y el retador clima iqueño. Y ha redescubierto Cañete como el perfecto complemento.
Esta línea de vinos patrimoniales es un hito (la etiqueta también es un acierto). Ha buscado hacer un quebranta bastante domado y pulido. Con predominio de la expresión frutal.
Estrelas do Brasil Extra Brut Rosé – Urban Winery Serra Gaúcha, Faria Lemos, Rio Grande do Sul (Brasil) La ronda se cerró con un estupendo espumoso brasileño hecho con el método tradicional
Comida Ronda 1: Sashimi de conchas acevichadas y mango; puré de yuca con pesca del día acevichada.; ensalada caprese con balsámico y mostaza dijon.
Ronda 2: tres parejas de tintos
Insólito Pinot Noir 2020 – Puerta del Abra Balcarce, Buenos Aires (Argentina) Un descubrimiento. Brillante pinot noir de una región que nace y que acaba de obtener su propia IG (Indicación Geográfica) lo que funge de partida de bautismo para este lugar con influencia atlántica.
Origin Pinot Noir 2020 – Viña Leyda San Antonio, Valle de Leyda (Chile) Un excelente pinot noir de la enóloga Viviana Navarrete, una especialista en esta cepa. El vino tiene mucha fruta roja y ligeros toques herbales. Muestra cierta complejidad, pero, sobre todo, llama a beberlo y servir una segunda copa.
Sabina Syrah 2022 – Sacramentos Vinifer Serra da Canastra, Minas Gerais, Sacramento (Brasil) Después de unos minutos en la copa, una vez que los aromas de reducción fueron desapareciendo, pensé que podía ser un syrah de San Juan o un petit verdot iqueño. La fruta muy madura revelaba un clima cálido pero en la boca mostró un equilibrio inesperado, que nos llamó la atención más cuando supimos procedía de una zona tropical.
Polkura Syrah 2019 – Polkura Marchigue, Valle de Colchagua (Chile). Cuando uno prueba un syrah así no puede creer que esta variedad no esté entre las preferidas de los consumidores. Mucha fruta roja madura, finos especiados. En la boca buen volumen sin perder frescura y estructura firme. Intenso y balanceado.
Don Manuel Tannat 2019 – Tacama Valle de Ica, (Perú) Fue el primer vino con vocación «premium» en el Perú. Ha ido encontrado su camino y hoy se ha consolidada y se expresa con equilibrio. Un referente.
Batovi T1 Tannat 2018 – Cerro Chapeu Cerro Chapeu, Rivera (Uruguay). Había probado hace poco la cosecha 2017 que me gustó pero esta añada muestra más complejidad, con el perfil clásico que plasma Francisco Carrau en sus vinos.
Comida Ronda 2: risotto de zapallo loche con canilla de cordero; salteado de hongos, papa amarilla, arroz y sillao; entraña con papas nativas y hongos silvestres.
Ronda 3: las muchas caras del Malbec
Alta Malbec 2020 – Pascual Toso Barrancas, Maipú, Mendoza (Argentina) Es un gusto volver a pobar este tipo de vinos que hizo famosa a Argentina, antes del surgimiento estelar del valle de Uco. Desde el inicio seduce con la intensidad de su fruta y estructura firme.
Golden Reserve Malbec 2020 – Trivento (mezcla de uvas de Vistalba, Las Compuertas, Agrelo y Perdriel) Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza (Argentina) Una bodega de grandes volúmenes que logra hacer vinos consistentes y disfrutables como este Golden.
Finca Las Torcazas Vineyard Malbec 2019 – Cadus Wines Alto Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza (Argentina) En el P.T. de 2017 Santiago Mayora presentó la cosecha 2014 de este vino. En la edición 2023 disfrutamos nuevamente de la interpretación que hace este anólogo del terruño de Alto Agrelo.
Teho Malbec 2019 – Mil Suelos La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina). rUn malbec cofermentedo con cabernet franc y petit verdot. Seduce con sus aromas de fruta madura, especias dulces y tostados y en la boca es muy expresivo
Selección de Bodega Malbec 2019 – Doña Paula Gualtallary, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina) La fruta negra adquiere una dimensión adicional con el carácter de sus suelos calizos que le dan una textura fina de taninos largos y envolventes.
El Barba Malbec 2019 – Zorzal Gualtallary, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina) Vino con la impronta Michelini (esta vez Juan Pablo).Una expresión varietal con fruta y toques florales. En la boca es agudo y vibrante.
Comida Ronda 3: lomo en salsa de balsámico; Ravioles de pepián de choclo en salsa de pato; Lomo a la plancha y salsa y frutos rojos con puré de papa y prosciutto.
Ronda 4: chardonnay, cabernet franc y carmenere
Viñedos de Montaña Chardonnay 2021 – Matías Riccitelli Wines La Carrera y Gualtallary, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina). La chardonnay como un lienzo en blanco al servicio del carácter impuesto por estos viñedos de altura. Cítricos, melocotón, toques herbales, Un recuerdo lácteo. Complejidad con la marca registrada de Matías Riccitelli.
Tara Chardonnay 2021 – Ventisquero Valle del Huasco, Atacama (Chile) Un vino que puede parecer rústico pero que muestra pureza y habla de un lugar extremo. Huele a desierto. En la boca se van revelando varias capas y finaliza con una larga persistencia.
Gran Cabernet Franc XI 2020 – Pulenta Estate Alto Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza (Argentina) Un grato reencuentro con el que fue el primer gran Cabernet franc que probé de Argentina. Sigue en plena forma.
Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Cabernet Franc 2019 – Enemigo Wines El Cepillo, San Carlos, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina) Alejandro Vigil plasma un trabajo de “alta costura” diseñando un vino que pueda expresar en forma auténtica las particularidades de El Cepillo. La crianza se hace en fudres de 100 años.
Viola Carmenere 2019 – Maquis Palmilla, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) Este Carménère está complementado por cabernet franc 9% y cabernet sauvignon 6% que contribuyen a darle una mayor estructura y profundidad sin quitarle protagonismo a la variedad principal. Un buen hallazgo.
Wings Carmenere 2019 – Montes Apalta, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) La nueva creación de los Aurelios. Cuando uno pensaba que ya estabaa todo dicho en Viña Montes nos sorprenden con este Carménère. Fieles a su estilo, mezcla intensidad con amabilidad pero es más ágil y tiene una estructura más firme. Pero no esconden el carácter varietal y fruta roja madura se funde con las notas herbales que son su sello.
Ronda 4 Tataki de atún con palta en salsa de soya fermentada, Ensalada 3 quinuas, tomate, cebolla, queso fresco y aceite de oliva; Asado de tira con risotto de zapallo loche
Ronda 5: mezcla
Susana Balbo Signature White Blend 2022 – Susan Balbo Wines Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina) En los últimos años las bodegas argentinas empezaron a ofrecer vinos blancos de mezcla y hoy son tendencia. A ciegas la nota aromática nos llevaba a la moscatel o torrontés. Pero la acidez, elegancia y complejidad indicaban que había algo más. Este Signature se compone de 45% semillón, 32% sauvignon blanc y 23% torrontés.
G.S.M 2018 – Alma Mater Los Chacayes, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina) Santiago Achaval confesó que había hecho una pausa en su amor incondicional por el malbec para concebir este intrigante G.S.M que en realidad es un M.G.S. ya que las variedades predominantes son la monastrell y la garnacha (con un toque de syrah). Una nueva veta que debe seguir explorando.
Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu Cabernet Franc 2019 – Siesta en el Tahuan Vista Flores, Tunuyán, Valle de Uco (Mendoza): esta bodega apostó hace un tiempo por la agricultura orgánica y las prácticas biodinámicas. Un cabernet Franc con varias facetas: a la expresión frutal le suma otras que recuerdan al campo (herbáceas y animales) pero que encuentran un equilibrio inusual. Un vino atrevido y con carácter propio.
Gran Reserva Isabel 2020 – Finca Rotondo Chincha, Valle de Ica, Perú. El enólogo Óscar Mancilla no la tenía fácil. Tenía que presentar su vino en una ronda en la que participaban varios nombres consgrados de la región. Isabel dio la talla.
IV Generación Gran Corte 2019 – Bianchi Los Chacayes, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina) Silvio Alberto es el gestor de una nueva etapa para Bianchi que hoy tiene bodega en el Valle de Uco (aparte de la histórica en San Rafael). Una mezcla de 60% malbec, 35% cabernet sauvignon y|5% merlot que se siente perfectamente contemporánea pero que no renuncia a la tradición.
Cavas de Weinert Cask Selection 2012 – Weinert Ugarteche, Lunlunta, Perdriel y Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza (Argentina) La unidad de medida de tiempo en esta bodega es la década. He catado sus vinos desde el siglo pasado y no solo resisten la prueba del tiempo, sino que siguen mejorando. El clasicismo entendido de la mejor manera. Un homenaje permanente a la antigua usanza.
Comida Ronda 5: Panceta de cerdo crocante con majado de yuca y chalaquita, Raviol de hongos en crema de papa trufada y queso parmesano y Estofado de ossobuco con puré de polenta trufada.
Ronda 6: malbecs y cabernets, solos y mezclados
MEG Escorihuela Gascón 2020 – Escorihuela Gascón El Cepillo, San Carlos, y San José, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina. Una mezcla de malbec y cabernet sauvignon en la que el enólogo Matias Ciciani logra un estilo a mitad de camino entre la calidez de lo clásico y la frescura y profundidad que otorga el valle de Uco.
Arlene Series 2019 – Piatelli Vineyards Cafayate & Animaná, Valles Calchaquíes, Salta (Argentina) El único vino salteño de la noche. Una mezcla con 85% de malbec y 15% cabernet sauvignon. Se siente el terruño con esas características notas especiadas y herbales complementado el torrente frutal.
Chaski Petit Verdot 2019 – Pérez Cruz Valle del Maipo, Andes (Chile) German Lyon sorprendió con la nueva edición de Chaski. La experiencia lo ha llevado a tratar de otra forma a esta variedad que suele dar vinos compactos e infranqueables para sacar el lado más amable y frutal, sin perder carácter y tipicidad.
Caballo Loco Grand Cru Maipo 2020 – Valdiiveso Valle del Maipo, (Chile) El nombre de Brett Jackson está a veces opacado por la marca Caballo Loco. Pero él es el hombre detrás de todos los vinos de Valdivieso desde hace un par de décadas. No podía faltar un cabernet del Maipo en este recorrido por la Sudamérica vitivinícola.
Nicolas Catena Zapata 2018 – Catena Zapata Gualtallary, Tupungato y Altamira, San Carlos, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (Argentina): este vino refleja el pasado y el presente de esta bodega. La mezcla de cabernet sauvignons 78% y malbec 22% nos habla de las 2 variedades que han marcado su historia. La calidad de la fruta sortea con éxito la importante influencia de roble nuevo. Un ClÁSICO con mayúsculas.
Futa Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 – Calcu Marchigue, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) El vino más antiguo de la noche pero se sentía muy firme y vivo. En Colchagua tamién se hacen buenos cabernets con potencial de añejamiento. Rodrigo Romero nos sorprendió con las dos etiquetas que presentó (la otra: Viola Carménère)
Comida ronda 6: Bife en salsa de pimienta verde con papas panaderas; carpaccio de zucchini, huevo de codorniz, tomate, albahaca, tomillo; Pulpo en salsa anticuchera con tortellini de camote.
Ronda 7:
Sophia L’Orange 2022 – Bodega Murga Valle de Pisco, (Perú) Pietra Possamai nos deslumbró con su historia, la de un proyecto innovador basado en las variedades tradicionales del viñedo peruano. En esta nueva cosecha de su Sophia L’Orange se mostró más ligero pero tal vez por eso también más abordable. Nos gusta la búsqueda y riesgos que toma esta bodega y la originalidad de sus vinos.
Cave Geisse Nature, Leveduras Autóctones 2015 – Geisse Altos de Pinto Bandeira, Serra Gaúcha, Rio Grande do Sul (Brasil) Mario Geisse es un enólogo chileno que ha trabajado con Casa Silva y otras viñas pero que paralelemente desarrolla ha desarrolla un proyecto de vinos espumosos en Brasil donde se ha convertido una autoridad. En este vino apostaron a una larga maduración en lías.
Tapado Chardonnay 2018 – El Relator Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo,Mendoza (Argentina) Inmejorable cierre del evento con un gran espumoso de Pepe Reginato. Genial la historia del Flaco Gabrielli sobre la inclusión de destilado de uva añejado en el licor de expedición, imitando un uso antiguo, lo que seguremente le ha aportado una dimensión insospechada a este «Tapado» que superó las expectativas por varios cuerpos.
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